Devo's Climbs

Sunday, September 09, 2012

Alpine Climb: Prusik Peak, Beckey/Davis - Sep 1, 2012

Around 9am Saturday September 1, 2012 Peter and I descended from our bivy atop Dragontail Peak (which we'd climbed via Backbone Ridge on Friday) and began making our way to the South Face of Prusik to climb the Beckey/Davis route. Along the way, near Aasgard Pass, we cooked up a little coffee and breakfast, enjoying another gorgeous day in the Enchantments.

NEAR PRUSIK PASS


At 11:30 we were at the base of the West Ridge, sorting gear, hanging packs in trees. By noon Peter was leading the first pitch, a 5.8 chimney.

MORE WIDE FOR PETER


I followed, right side in - that seemed the easiest way, allowing use of another crack for stemming and facing the protection. Pitch two began with a bit of knobby face climbing into a right facing corner/flake system, about 5.7 I'd say.

We ran the middle pitches - a series of corner systems and grooves - a bit short, navigating by feel, steadily moving up and right, away from the Burgner/Stanley route to our left, until we gained Snafflehound Ledge.

OUR ROUTE UP THE SOUTH FACE


I led pitch 6 up a vertical crack system, 5.9 I believe, placing a good deal of gear and built a belay about 100ft. up. Peter finished the next bit off, up to a ledge with a tree.

PETER FOLLOWING PITCH 6




Then I ran up a gully/chimney to a short lieback which deposited me at the base of a sweet looking .10a thin hands crack leading to the summit. Initially I continued up, but realized I didn't have the gear to protect it, so I belayed Peter up, grabbed both pairs of green and red Camalots and then sent it clean!

OH YEAH


SO SICK!


We summited at 5:30pm and promptly began our long descent to the trailhead - ending a tremendous two days of alpine climbing in the Enchantments.

GOOD TIMES






More pictures: Dragontail/Prusik Aug 31 - Sep 1, 2012 photo set on Flickr ยป

Gear Notes:
Single Camalots .4-#4, doubles from .5-#2. Full set of nuts.
Slings: 10 singles, 2 doubles, 1 Cordelette ea.
60m 9.4mm rope

Approach Notes:
Climbing Dragontail the day before meant we didn't have to hike up Ass-kick Pass.

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