Devo's Climbs

Tuesday, July 31, 2012

Road Trip: Squamish - July 27-29, 2012

This summer I finally decided it'd just been too long (8 years!) since I'd climbed at Squamish, so I arranged for some time off the final week of July. Of course it rained the first four days and I ended up cragging in Leavenworth instead, but when the weather improved Micah and I were able to get a solid four days of climbing in at Canada's granite paradise. Here's what went down.

Thu 7/26

Drove to BC, arrived that afternoon and cragged at Murrin Park:
  • The World's Toughest Milkman, 5.9
  • Geneside, 5.10b
  • Genesis, 5.10a

Fri 7/27
Climbed Apron Strings/The Grand Wall, III 5.11a A0. I led:
  • P1 of Apron Strings 5.10b
  • P1 of Grand Wall (Merci Me) 5.7 R
  • P3 - 5.10b traverse
  • P4 - The Split Pillar 5.10b
  • P7 - The Flats 5.10a

OUR ROUTE UP THE GRAND WALL


I took a small fall while leading p1 of Apron Strings, but we on-sighted the remaining 5.10 pitches. The Sword and Perry's Layback pitches went free with some extra effort. Overall we moved well, climbing the ten pitches in approx. 6.5 hrs. The Split Pillar was one of the best jam cracks I've ever led - felt easier than 10b to me, but I love jam cracks (and can't understand why anyone would ever lieback this gorgeous splitter). The 11a pitches were burly though - need to work on my layback endurance!

LEADING P1, GRAND WALL (MERCI ME)


LEADING P3


MICAH ON THE SPLIT PILLAR






MICAH LEADING PERRY'S LAYBACK



Sat 7/28
We climbed The Great Game, II 5.10d at Slhanay. I led pitches two (5.8) and four (.10c). I followed the first pitch - a strenuous .10d traverse on solid fingers locks - cleanly though it cost me a bit of flesh. On pitch three - a thin .10c finger lieback with slick feet - I slipped a few times but finally made the spicy final moves to the anchor. The fourth pitch involved some burly .10c moves up a steep headwall on bomber jugs - super fun!

MICAH LEADING P1, THE GREAT GAME


MICAH ON P2


VIEW OF THE CHIEF FROM SLHANAY



Sun 7/29
On our way out of town that morning we squeezed in three more pitches, climbing Centrefold, II 5.10b at The Papoose. I led pitch one (10b) and three (10a), the latter being particularly memorable: spicy runout friction slab with bolts in just the right spots. Another fine climb and a great way to end our trip.

SO GOOD TO BE BACK IN SQUAMISH!



More photos: Squamish July 2012 photo set on Flickr ยป

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