Devo's Climbs

Tuesday, May 03, 2011

Rock Climb: Lower Town Wall - May 1, 2011

Sunday was another gorgeous day at Index. I warmed up with a shaky lead of Tatoosh (5.10b), taking a fall in the chimney on a green C3 when my foot peeled. The rest of the pitch wasn't any prettier. I bloodied my fingers to the point of uselessness and resorted to a bit of french free to finish it off. Chad sent it elegantly on TR of course! I did another lap but never really figured out a solid way through the chimney.

Chad led Thin Fingers (5.11a) next, sailing up the thin .10a start, flashing the slab crux and subsequently flailing on the 5.9 jam-crack. Guess he knows what he needs to work on! I TR'd it, slipping on my initial attempt on the slab but ultimately sending all the moves clean.

In the afternoon we sought shade in The Country. Chad led pitch one of G-M (5.8+); I led the second (5.9) linked with Heart of the Country (5.10a), including the upper extension (definitely not .11a!). First time I'd successfully put all that together on lead! I felt better about flailing on Tatoosh after that ...

After HOTC we hooked up with Tony, who'd driven to Index after work.  I led Godzilla (5.9) and Tony - after a warm up lap on TR - led it on pre-placed gear. I did one more TR lap and Tony did a final run via the .10a bolt ladder. By then it was 6 p.m. - we'd began climbing at 8:30 a.m. Some of the first in and the last out - an awesome day! :-)

Photos of Tony's first lead of G-zilla:












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