Devo's Climbs

Sunday, August 15, 2010

Rock Climb: Lower Town Wall - Aug 13, 2010

Spent Friday climbing in the sizzling heat at Index with Jason. Had dreams of sending Sloe Children (5.10d). Jason led Godzilla then I gave pitch two of City Park a go (5.10b).

JASON ON GODZILLA


I climbed myself into a jam on the initial stem section and took a short leader fall on a sketchy #4 nut, which popped and dropped me down to my first placement - about 8-10 ft. At that point Jason took over and freed the pitch clean. We determined that if you're under 5'10" it was easier to climb out left and use the arete to move back right into the stem in order to reach the mantel ledge than to attack the stem directly (as I had done). It's still a stretch, but definitely manageable.

JASON LEADING P2, CITY PARK






By the time we reached the Park Benches it was blistering hot and we passed on Sloe Children. Instead we traversed left, rapp'ed and set a TR on Japanese Gardens. Jason climbed it clean with one fall at the crux; I worked it for a good long while but finally gave up, exhausted by the heat and bleeding on my left pinky finger. I might send it someday when I'm more fit and the temp's more reasonable.

More pics: Index Aug 13, 2010 photo set on Flickr ยป

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