Devo's Climbs

Tuesday, June 01, 2010

Rock Climb: Cragging Memorial Weekend '10

Got in two days of great cragging in Leavenworth over Memorial Weekend with Tim and Tony.

Bathtub Dome:
Drove over in the morning Saturday with Tim and hiked up to one of my favorite crags in the Icicle: Bathtub Dome (~ 55 min). We started at the lowest of the three tiers with a lead each on Dave's Arete (5.6 sport) and climbed to the second tier via the first pitch of New Fixtures (5.7). From there we both led Chumstick 2-Step, an enjoyable but soft 5.9+, then continued up the second pitch of New Fixtures (5.7) to the base of tier three: a striking 150-foot bullet-shaped horn of beautiful granite.

CHUMSTICK 2-STEP & NEW FIXTURES


BATHTUB DOME


Our chosen route to the summit was The Drain (5.9), a classic line I'd followed twice back in '05 but had yet to lead.

LOOKING UP AT THE DRAIN


A primary challenge of leading The Drain is mental: your first opportunity for pro is 25 feet above the belay, preceded immediately by a committing mantel move to gain the stance. I managed the solid face climbing (while traversing around some wetness on the route) and, after testing the move a few times, the mantel. The crack took a smallish nut and a C3 Camalot which I equalized with a sling. Looking up, I spied the lone bolt on the route another 15-20 feet above me. Along the way I placed a medium offset nut in a horizontal seam to the left - probably more mental pro than actual - then finessed an undercling/hand/foot-match move to gain the bolt - whew! After some more 5.9 face moves I entered the shallow but solid 5.7 hand crack and my worries melted away. What a fun route! Tim thought so too.

TIM FOLLOWING THE DRAIN




GOOD TIMES ON BATHTUB DOME


All day the weather'd been comfortably cool, mostly cloudy with a bit of a breeze and few sun breaks, but after The Drain the wind grew stronger and we grew cold. It was about 4pm, so we hiked down to the road and drove into Leavenworth to round up some grub. In town I called my parents and found out they were at their cabin in nearby Plain having salmon dinner, so we picked up some beer and drove out to join them. The cabin itself was full so Tim and I pitched my tarp and slept in the back yard within earshot of the river. Not too shabby!


Clem's Holler/Special Spot:
On Sunday morning Tony drove from the west side and met us in the Tumwater. We started at Clem's Holler on Playin' Possum (5.10a). Tim led the first pitch (5.8 bolts), Tony led the second (5.7 bolts), and I the third (5.10a w/ gear).

TIM GETTING US OFF THE GROUND ON PLAYIN' POSSUM


GETTING MY SLAB ON, PITCH 2


I'd never climbed the third pitch - what a great lead: super-technical lieback moves up a slabby corner, more balancy than burly. I spent a good deal of time working out the sequence from below before committing to the moves, but sent it clean onsite - nice!

LEADING PITCH 3


TONY FOLLOWING PITCH 3


TONY FIXIN' TO SEND THE CRUX ON PLAYIN' POSSUM


TIM'S TURN


By the time we rapp'ed to the ground Clem's was overun with climbers, so we marched uphill to The Special Spot where there was only one other party climbing on Opening Ceremonies. We jumped on The Javelin and this time I sent it clean. This was turning out to be an awesome day.

DEVO VS. THE JAVELIN: ROUND 3




Tony and Tim each did a lap on TR.

TONY


We finished the day with an ascent of Semi-Final, a spectacular mixed climb over 160 feet of varied terrain finishing via a spicy 10a slab. Of the all my leads this weekend, this one was my favorite: crack climbing, liebacking, route-finding, tenuous friction moves - wow! A great sense of satisfaction came over us as we hiked back to the car. Tony was headed home, Tim and I to Plain to barbecue up a dinner of brats and beer. Good times. :-)

More pics: Leavenworth Memorial Day Weekend 2010 on Flickr ยป

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