Devo's Climbs

Sunday, May 09, 2010

Rock Climb: Special Spot

Went back to Leavenworth Saturday with Tim and Josh. Hiked up to The Special Spot in Tumwater Canyon. It'd rained overnight and the rock was a bit wet when we arrived, so we took it easy and let the sun do it's work, eventually starting our climbing just after 10am.

Josh kicked off the day with a lead on Cracked and Peeled (5.9), a somewhat awkward crack-to-slab climb on mixed gear. (Bolts next to cracks - whaddup?) Tim followed on TR, then I lead to the first anchor and continued further via the upper pitch of Special Olympics (5.10a) which had some spectacular climbing on balancy knobs and a blank slab. It's worth noting that Leavenworth Rock, 3rd Ed. does not have accurate info about Cracked and Peeled. It shows the anchor at 90 feet, equal in height and just to the left of The Javelin anchors. It's more like 70 feet and it doesn't even mention a second pitch. That's how I ended up climbing Special Olympics, thinking I was still on C&P'd. I found a better description of the routes here. It took two rappels to get off the Special Olympics anchor - roughly 150 feet.

JOSH LEADING CRACKED AND PEELED


As we prepared for our next climb, Opening Ceremonies (5.9), another party of three arrived and began climbing Cracked and Peeled. It'd been almost three years since I'd led Opening Ceremonies - didn't remember much other than the kayak-shaped pod I "swam" up. It sure is a fun route, especially the final face - committing moves with good gear when you find the placements. Three times my feet peeled just as I grabbed the next hold - exciting!

THE START OF OPENING CEREMONIES


JOSH PRACTICING HIS BREAST STROKE IN THE POD ON OPENING CEREMONIES


LEADING THE UPPER FACE OF OPENING CEREMONIES


After OC, we moved over to the The Javelin (5.10a), a climb I have a history with. I took my very first lead fall on The Javelin: a spectacular twenty foot, upside down whipper that yanked my belayer something fierce and left him with a nice scar on his shin. I really wanted to climb it clean.

THE JAVELIN


Josh went first, Tim TR'd it.

JOSH SENDING THE JAVELIN


TIM ON THE JAVELIN


Finally it was my turn.

DEVO VS. THE JAVELIN: ROUND TWO


I felt solid on the powerful lieback moves and made the last clip in good style. I paused for a final dip of the chalk bag and - POP! - off came my feet. Dammit! At least it was a clean fall this time. I got back on and finished strong but my redpoint would have to wait.

Tired and hungry, we packed it in and headed into town for burgers and beer at Uncle Uli's. Good times.

More photos: view all 30 pics from our climbing at Special Spot.

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