Devo's Climbs

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Road Trip: Smith Rock, May 14-17

Friday & Sat:
I came down with the stomach flu Fri morning and I spent the first two days of our trip nursing my aching innards. Tim drove us down Fri and I slept in the condo while he climbed with friends on Sat. :-(

Sunday:
By Sunday morning I was well enough to climb something. Forgot my camera though, so I didn't get any pics of the day. Tim and I were at Morning Glory Wall around 9 am where we each led Five Gallon Buckets (5.8) and The Outsiders (5.9). Tim had pushed himself pretty hard Saturday and was feeling it: he took some good whippers on The Outsiders but kept at it - good for him. I felt strong enough climbing-wise, just very blah mentally, which actually made leading feel pretty casual!

After MGW, we strolled over to Cinnamon Slab which was surprisingly empty. I quickly lead Ginger Snap (5.8) and Tim took us to the top via Cry Baby (5.9). He enjoyed the climb a lot though the exposure had him contemplating his sanity at times. ;-)

It was now mid-afternoon and uncomfortably hot, so we decided to seek shade at Rope De Dope Block. I made a solid lead of Float Like a Butterfly (5.10b), an enjoyable climb with a bouldery beginning and lots of fun sidepulls up high. Tim TR'd it and then we both did a lead on How Low Can You Go? (5.7).

Itching to place some gear, we hiked up to Red Wall to climb Super Slab (5.6) which was in the shade. Pitch one went quick; I maybe placed five pieces total. I was in the middle of pitch two, the easy but poorly protected 5.4 traverse, when a dark cloud moved above us and began dumping large drops of rain. I sat in the middle of the traverse for a few minutes waiting it out, but this was no passing shower and the rock was quickly soaked. Eventually I retreated to the anchor where we rapp'ed to the ground and called it a day. Storm clouds continued moving in throughout the evening and we enjoyed some brilliant lightning displays from the deck of our condo.

Monday:

We went back to finish Super Slab in the morning. Weather was cloudy and cooler, but comfortable. The sun came out eventually. Hardly a soul in the park but we found another party ahead of us, go figure. They were climbing the first pitch of SS but were planning to finish via another route, so we waited, we weren't in a hurry anyhow. The first two pitches were casual, the 3rd and final pitch was brilliant and I savored it, enjoying the movement, placing solid pro. Tim dug it too.

TIM SOAKING IT IN, PITCH 3 OF SUPER SLAB






Two double rope rappels to the ground and our trip was finished. Just in time too: as we hiked back to the parking lot the skies darkened and the showers came. We enjoyed more lightning shows on the drive home.

More pics of our climb on Super Slab ยป

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