Devo's Climbs

Monday, April 12, 2010

Rock Climb: Princely Ambitions/ Godzilla

Spent Sunday at Index Town Wall with Tony and Kurt. Hit the parking lot around 9 AM and it was already half full: the Lower Wall was crawling with aid climbers. Must have been a group outing, class or the something of the like. They were even aiding some of the popular free climbs, which seemed odd. Oh well, Princely Ambitions (5.9) was open and we got right to it.

It was cloudy and cool and there were still some damp spots on the route, but none that seemed to prohibit climbing. I led, Kurt belayed. After scrambling up the fourth class start I quickly gained a stance at the lone bolt on the face and began a rightward hand traverse, placing my right foot on a flake that I sensed was damp. Attempting to divert my weight off the slimy foothold, I pulled, stood and POP! - my foot slipped and down I went.

It was a small fall, not frightening at all, just disappointing. I got back on and mopped up the flake with some chalk: problem solved. The remainder of the route went without incident. I hadn't climbed Princely in almost a year - what a sweet hand traverse! Tony followed, clipping his trailing rope through the gear to protect Kurt. This was both their first time on the route - fun, fun, fun!


TONY PUTS HIS AMBITIONS TO THE TEST ON PRINCELY AMBITIONS


FRESH SNOW + SUNSHINE = 1 AWESOME VIEW

Footage of Kurt on the hand traverse:


We climbed the second 5.8 pitch as well, then ambled over to Godzilla - the only other climb open on the crowded wall today, go figure. The sun was now shining and it was quite warm. That, and the fact that it was my second lead, made Godzilla enjoyable and relaxing.


FUN IN THE SUN


OH YEAH

Tony followed and then, as we prepared our rappel, a gentleman below asked if he could TR Godzilla using our rope. "Of course!" we replied. So he did a lap, I did one via the "Bambi" 5.10 variation and Tony another via the direct 5.9 finish. Beer-thirty was then declared and Pipeline Porter was enjoyed by the river. Good times.

Photos: view all 37 pics from our Sunday at Index on Flickr

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