Devo's Climbs

Sunday, October 04, 2009

Yosemite: Week One Wrap-up

Tue, Sep 29

Glacier Point Apron

Route: The Grack, Center (II, 5.6)
I led pitches 1 & 3. This is a favorite of ours, I think we've done it every year.
KURT LEADING PITCH TWO OF THE GRACK, CENTER
Yosemite 2009

KURT ON PITCH THREE OF THE GRACK, CENTER
Yosemite 2009

Route: Goodrich Pinnacle (II+, 5.9R)
My second attempt at this one and, just like three years ago, the weather got the best of us - started spitting rain at the top of pitch three. Not exactly what you want before heading up slippery slab, so we bailed.

CONTEMPLATING THE WEATHER BEFORE PITCH FOUR
Yosemite 2009

ROYAL ARCHES AND NORTH DOME FROM GOODRICH PINNACLE
Yosemite 2009

Route: The Grack, Left (II, 5.7)
We wanted to get some more climbing in if we could and headed back over to the Grack and climb it's variant to the left - a somewhat interesting lieback on the second pitch was the best bit. Not nearly as good as The Grack, Center though - don't think I'd go outta' my way to repeat it.
LEADING PITCH TWO, THE GRACK, LEFT
Yosemite 2009

Wed, Sep 30

Knob Hill
Route: Sloth Wall(I, 5.7)
A fun single pitch route with a wild upper stretch on huge chickenheads - fun! Kurt led this one.

KURT IN THE LAND OF KNOBS, SLOTH WALL
Yosemite 2009

Route: Just for Starters(I, 5.10a)
A bolted route left to Sloth Wall. The crux is a few well protected, balancy face moves right off the start, then it eases up (and gets run out) when you hit the huge knobs above. I led this one.

Route: Anti Ego Crack (I, 5.7)
An enjoyable low angle wide crack to the right of Sloth Wall. My lead.

ANTI EGO CRACK
Yosemite 2009

Route: Turkey Pie (I, 5.7)
On a cliff directly below the climbs noted above. The guidebook describes it as a great offwidth practice climb. We toproped it and found that there wasn't really any need to climb the offwidth crack at the top - it was easily bypassed - and the climbing below wasn't particularly memorable either. No need to repeat this one.


Pat and Jack Pinnacle
Route: Nurdle (I, 5.8)
A very steep and intimidating 5.8 - but it's all there and exciting to boot (my lead). From the top of this you can walk over and set a toprope on Sherrie's Crack.

Route: Sherrie's Crack (I, 5.10c)
A wonderful steep finger crack followed by a sustained 5.9 hand crack to the finish. Probably the best finger crack I've climbed outside of Sloe Children at Index Town Wall. I managed to get up it this time without a fall, barely.

Thu, Oct 1

Royal Arches
Route: Royal Arches (III, 5.7, A0)
My third, Kurt's second time on this one. What can I say other than it's the most enjoyable 1,600 feet of moderate climbing I've ever done...

KURT LEADING 5.6 FLAKES, PITCH 8
Royal Arches 2009

SWINGING ON THE A0 PENDULUM, PITCH 9


KURT FOLLOWING THE PENDULUM
Royal Arches 2009

DEVO & HALF DOME


KURT LEADING PITCH 14
Royal Arches 2009

DEVO ON TOP
Royal Arches 2009

Fri, Oct 2

Glacier Point Apron
Route: The Goblet, Center (I, 5.6 - 5.9 with variations)
Warmed up on these short, slabby climbs. I led via a 5.6 then we TR'd some 5.7-5.9 slabs.

Route: Goodrich Pinnacle (II+, 5.9R)
FINALLY! Got 'er done this time, though it wasn't easy. Some of the trickiest runout friction route-finding I've ever done, bar none. Unfortunately I didn't get any pictures - forgot to put my memory card back in my camera from the night before - doh! I'll remember and get pics next time, cause there will be a next time! ;-)

All my Yosemite '09 pictures are here

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