Devo's Climbs

Friday, September 18, 2009

Rock Climbs: Godzilla, Silent Running

Wed, Sep 16

Location: Index Town Wall, WA
Route: Godzilla
Grade: I, 5.9 - 5.10 (w/ variations)
Gear: Full rack, draws

Spent an idyllic Wednesday morning at Index with Jason. 9:30 am we were at the base of the wall and decided to warm up on Godzilla - my lead. Then we decided we'd run laps on it until someone kicked us off - why not? Great way to get in shape for Yosemite! We did 6 laps apiece (approx. 700 vertical feet) with several variations varying in difficulty up to 5.10. At 2:30 pm another party showed up and ended our workout.

Fri, Sep 18

Location: Darrington, WA
Route: Silent Running (w/ bonus pitch)
Grade: II+, 5.10b
Gear placed: BD C4's .5 - 2; C3's green & red; 8 QD's and 2 alpine draws

Kurt and I drove out to slab city (D-town) to get in some long pitches and vert. Hiked to Three O'Clock Rock and found we had it all to ourselves! Silent Running beckoned and we heeded her call. I led pitch 1, an easy 5.5. I placed a #1 cam in the crack before the solitary bolt, mainly because I had it on me. Kurt led pitch 2 (5.8) - all bolts. Pitch 3 was the first crux at 5.9+. I placed a .5 cam under a small overlap - again, mainly because I had it. Kurt led the next two pitches, both 5.8, all bolts. The 5th pitch was fun, probably only one 5.8 move, the rest easier w/ knobs. I led the final (6th) pitch (5.9+) and the "bonus" 7th pitch (5.10b). The old rusty buttonhead bolts (scaaary!) had been replaced with new bolts and Metolius hangers since our last visit in '06, a much appreciated upgrade. I hadn't climbed the bonus 10b pitch before; it looked intimidating with it's 2 roofs. I made some 5.9'ish moves up to the first overlap which was well protected by a bolt; the second overlap had a nice crack below it where I placed a #2 cam and clipped a bolt above. I wasted time and energy placing a C3 in a thin crack (mental pro!) and pondered climbing up and left before deciding to go down and right around a bush instead, placed a .5 cam not too far above the the C3 and continued up through some spicy slab past two more bolts (this felt like the crux to me). The last bit climbed up to a dihedral where I recall placing a #1 cam and another C3 before running it out to the anchors. Started climbing at 10:35 am, finished pitch 7 just after 3 pm: 4.5 hours total to climb approximately 1,000 feet. Another hour and we'd rappelled to the base (simul-rapp'ing the last pitch). Good times. :)

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