Devo's Climbs

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Rock Climb: Condorphamine Addiction

Thursday's weather was iffy - both west and east of the mountains - but I was itching to climb and convinced Justin to join me for a foray on the popular "alpine sport" climb Condorphamine Addiction (5.10b) in the Icicle. Figured if the weather turned south we'd be able to bail on this well-protected (some would say too well) route. CA consists of seven short pitches, several of which can be combined. I ran the first two together (5.10a/5.9), Justin lead the third (5.4) and I the fourth (5.8). Pitch five is where the fun begins - an overhang followed by a thin bathtub-like dish of delicate 5.10b stemming moves. Justin took the sharp end and flashed it - nice lead. At this point I thought we were all but done with nothing but a final romp up some 5.4 rock to the top. I found out different - I'd forgotten the 90 foot sixth pitch of sustained 5.9/5.10b slab before the final seventh pitch - surprise! Not sure I'd ever led this pitch before - that could explain the omission - but it was delightfully exciting and I linked it with the easy seventh pitch for almost a full 60 meters - yeah! Three double rope rappels got us to the base in style. During our climb the weather alternated between mostly cloudy, light rain, sun and blustery wind, but never so bad that we felt threatened. Felt like we snuck one in - good times!

Condorphamine Addiction 08.21.08
JUSTIN FOLLOWING PITCH 2, 5.9

Condorphamine Addiction 08.21.08
JUSTIN LEADING PITCH 3, 5.4

Condorphamine Addiction 08.21.08
JUSTIN LEADING PITCH 5, 5.10b

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