Devo's Climbs

Wednesday, July 05, 2006

Alpine Climb: Sahale via Quien Sabe/Forbidden via West Ridge (attempt) - July 3-4, 2006

On July 3 & 4, 2006 I did some climbing around Boston Basin w/ my friend Dave, whom I'd recently met during a WFR course.

July 3:
I met Dave in Burlington at 6am then drove to Marblemount to get our camping permit. I was a bit surprised we scored one considering it was a holiday weekend, but there weren't many people registered - just our luck! Drove the Cascade River road, arrived at the climber's trail at 9am, hiked into Boston Basin and made high camp around 1pm.

APPROACHING BOSTON BASIN, TORMENT-FORBIDDEN ON THE SKYLINE


OUR BIVY BELOW FORBIDDEN


Dave and I got settled and then proceeded to get bored and ancy - there was lots of daylight left and we were doing the West Ridge of Forbidden the following morning. We twiddled our thumbs and I stared at the Quien Sabe and Sahale Peak. The route up the glacier looked to be in great shape. I started musing about how long it would take to "run up" it. I estimated 3 hours to the summit. That would leave us with plenty of daylight. Dave was intrigued but initially noncommittal. 20 more minutes of inactivity cured that however and we decided to go for it - at least go as far as we could with the time we had.

CLEAR PATH UP THE QUIEN SABE - TOO GOOD TO PASS UP


We left camp @ 2pm. The route was straight forward and we made the summit in 2hrs, 40min. The view from Sahale's summit was spectacular: Glacier, Sloan, Boston, Forbidden, Eldorado, Baker - all in full glory.

ON THE UPPER QUIEN SABE


KILLER MOUNTAINEERING SHOT


BELOW THE SUMMIT BLOCK


THE FINAL SCRAMBLE


DAVE ENJOYING SPECTACULAR VIEWS FROM THE SUMMIT OF SAHALE


The descent to camp took just 1 hr - just in time for dinner and an early bed. During our absence a marmot had taken the opportunity to munch on my bivy sack! It was completely ruined, what a pisser. We fell asleep to bright stars and a half moon.

SUNSET ON JOHANNESBURG



July 4:
We awoke at 4am to high clouds - no more stars. Made coffee and a hasty breakfast and began our way towards the West Ridge at 5am.

CHANGING WEATHER - JACOB'S LADDERS IN THE MORNING LIGHT


Shortly after starting out it began to rain. The clouds to the south were an intense black and moving our direction. Then it began to thunder and lightning - our signal to bail.

The rain began to fall harder on our way down to camp, then relented for a bit as we packed. However, the heavens opened up soon after we began to make our way out of the basin. I managed to lose my favorite Nalgene bottle on the way down - not a fun trip for my gear. The forest provided some relief from the rain but once we entered the brush on the lower trail we were soaked completely through in no time. At the car I drained several cups of water out of my boots. With dry clothing donned I bid adieu to another thwarted attempt of Forbidden.

SOGGY DAVE


Gear Notes:
Nuts, Hexes, a few cams, 9mm rope

Approach Notes:
Trail

More pics: Boston Basin July 3-4 Slideshow.

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