Devo's Climbs

Monday, June 19, 2006

Rock Climbs: Icicle Canyon/Index Town Wall/Exfoliation Dome

Got a lot of climbing done this weekend. Spent Saturday in L-worth with Kurt, Rosann and Katrina. Took them up the Tree Route (no surprise there - my fifth time this year). Love that climb. They liked it too. Spent the afternoon cragging at Sam Hill. I led Sams 'N Cams (5.7) and set a toprope on Groping for Oprah's Navel (5.10c) which Katrina and I both climbed. It was tenuous but I made it without a fall.

Katrina climbing the off-width on the Tree Route

On Sunday I took Payge and Julie to Great Northern Slab at Index. Payge is an indoor gym climbing stud and I was itching to get him on some outdoor crack climbs. He did well. Took him up Great Northern (5.6) and from there we toproped the 5.6 hand crack on Pisces. Then I toproped the lower crack on Pisces - a slick, off-hands 5.10a crack with marginal jams. I faired a bit better than before, but still flailed. Finished it this time though. Got some gobies too, but not bad. After lunch we toproped the off-width 5.8+ crack at the base of Great Northern. After watching me climb it, Payge managed it with only one fall - he's a good study. Julie gave it a shot too and worked it hard. Then Payge and I ran up Taurus (5.7). That's a lot of crack climbing for a gym rat! I love Index rock.

Payge tiptoes the finger crack

Monday was spent in Darrington where Tom and I hiked up the "death slabs" to Exfoliation Dome and did some fine slab climbing on Westward Ho! (5.9). The climb itself ends after four pitches but we were planning to continue to the top so Tom could investigate the possibility of base jumping the opposite side on some future date. After the 4th pitch there are bolted anchors for rapelling but no established climbing route. We had to use gear and the occasional shrub for protection. It was low grade climbing but quite adventurous nonetheless. Tom led pitch five, navigating some damp mossy slab in the process - yikes! By the time I reached the belay, the weather was looking iffy. It was cold, the wind was picking up and clouds were rolling in. So we bailed. After we rapped and started hiking back down the death slabs, the sun came out and the clouds rolled away into blue sky - go figure. Oh well, gives us an excuse to come back...
Tom on pitch two of Westward Ho!


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