Devo's Climbs

Thursday, May 18, 2006

Rock Climb: Index - Godzilla/Princely Ambitions

Spent this morning at Index with Ty. He hadn't touched real rock in a year, poor guy. Ty led Godzilla (5.9+) - he said he put twice as much gear in this time than he ever had before, a combination of growing older and getting his "gear head" back he said. Then I decided to try leading Princely Ambitions after Ty told me it wasn't as hard as G-zilla - wrong! Since a flake broke off at the crux a few years ago, the rating went from 5.9 to 5.10a. I didn't know that of course and promptly took off on lead. Got to the crux and went "oh sh!t". I kept my head together though, and after a good long look at the options I placed the best piece of pro I could and went for it. I aced it without a fall. Trippy! The rest of the pitch was solid 5.9 with a wonderfully exposed finger crack traverse and a narrow mantle. Princely is by far one of the most exhilarating climbs I've ever done - and I led it! I think I can lead Godzilla now...

TY BUSTING THE CRUX ON PRINCELY AMBITIONS
Ty busts the crux on Princely Ambitions

More pictures of our climbing at Index ยป

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