Devo's Climbs

Saturday, June 18, 2005

Rock Climb: Bathtub Dome, Condor Buttress

Today was by far the best climbing outing of the year! David, Hunter and I intitially went to Index, but the rock was still wet and we decided to spend the day in the Icicle instead. Since none of us had brought our Leavenworth guidebooks, I decided to take my buddies up Bathtub Dome via New Fixtures and The Drain, where I'd had a wonderful time in March with Dallas and Jason. Besides, I wanted to lead The Drain (5.9) myself!

We arrived at the base of Bathtub a little after 11:00am. Since we were climbing as a threesome, we were concerned about our progress. But we managed to climb all three pitches and descend to the base by 2:00pm, much earlier than we had expected. With plenty of daylight left, we decided to head up to Condor Buttress and see how much of Condorphamine Addiction (5.10b) we could knock off.

All I can say is that Condorphamine Addiction is freakin' fun! Very enjoyable climbing on good rock. The only minus I could find is that there was an awful lot of bolts. This route is so well protected that I could clip the bolt above me and reach down to unclip the bolt below and conserve my quickdraw. I began skipping bolts on the easier sections to save time and reclaim some of the fear factor.

We ran all but one of the seven pitches together and continued to make excellent progress. Because of our late start, all other parties were rapping off the route as we ascended. We climbed the last three pitches alone and topped out with plenty of daylight remaining. A thunderstorm had entered the Icicle from the south, but it appeared to be travelling away from us toward L-worth. We rapped quickly (no need to test our luck with Mother Nature!)and descended to the car, all the while skirting the edge of the storm. Finally, after a couple of beers and stories by the river, we headed home, taking with us the smiles and memories of a most excellent adventure.

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